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10/4/2012 - 0:40

The "sujinhos"

"Sujinho" is how we kindly call the kind of restaurants we use to go. “Sujinho” in Portuguese means “little dirty”. I don’t remember either when or how we came up with this nickname, but I can imagine why. We like to go to the “sujinhos” cause they are the most genuine sample of the local gastronomy and of course, they are the cheapest ones!

Every time we go to a “sujinho” I think of my grandma Ida. My grandma she doesn’t like to go to any restaurant, not even the good ones, cause she doesn’t know who is cooking her food and doesn’t know how they cook, if they wash the veggies well, if they wash their hands before cooking, etc.  At the “sujinhos” we know who cooks, cause usually is the same guy that takes the order, serves and bring the bill. And normally we can see them cooking as well although sometimes would be better not.

It’s hard to say which one was the most “sujinho”, but there are ones that go beyond the normal. By saying normal I mean the ones that do things like the guy taking the money from the other costumer, and then sticking the same hand in the pasta you ordered to check if it is ready, stuff like that. There was one close to the marina where we stayed in Bali that was a bit beyond the normal. At the entrance we saw a cockroach passing by, what is totally understandable, even we have their visit sometimes on board. Then a cat walking in the kitchen, what is not a big deal. But adding to it all, there was a kid playing with a rat close to our table so when our lunch arrived we were already thinking that they could be a little bit more concerned with hygienic. After that any crispy thing on my fried rice was a bit unpleasant.

Another interesting “Sujinho” was in Sri Lanka. My parents always used to tell me to wash my hands after handling the newspaper because it is dirty. Well, most of Sri Lanka’s “sujinhos” had pieces of newspaper as napkins. In one of them, the food was served directly in the newspaper, and cookies for dessert also came wrapped in newspaper. My grandmother would love this.
And we're still here, alive, healthy and strong.

Posted by Bruno Melatte Corino

29/3/2012 - 11:04

Sri Lanka - Maldivas

26/03/2012 - Monday.

The time now is 3 am, I just finished my shift that started at 1 am. We left Sri Lanka 33 hours ago. We left on Saturday 24th, 5pm, on a warm and sunny day. Even though we planned our departure for Saturday 3 days ago, as always, it was a rush ... Last minute shopping, rush to get to immigration on time and one of the crew members with diarrhea from eating a few cookies that were a little strange. To help, after we checked out we had to get out quickly because they close the port at 5 pm.

After the rush of departure, the journey started well. Calm sea with a gentle breeze and a beautiful sunset.

Now during my shift I remembered that one day my aunt Jane said she would be traveling through my eyes. I remembered this because during my watch I had again the desire that, not only her, but my parents, my friends, and everyone could see and feel moments like that first day of crossing.

The day dawned without a single cloud in the sky and so it remained throughout the day. The sea was calm and the water was clear and blue and a gentle wind was blowing. During the afternoon we could turn off the engine and sail at an average of 5 knots. Silence. Only water around us, the heavy traffic of ships of the first hours of the journey ended, and to close the day, another wonderful sunset. At night a very clear and starry sky with a crescent shaped moon, just like the ones I used to draw in my notebooks during a boring class, with a guy sitting on it playing guitar. Added to all of this comes the expectation of arriving in a paradise like the Maldives ... on the radio, the good old Bob Marley.

29/03/2012 – Thursday

We made it to the Maldives already, and my idea of ​​writing a diary did not work as you can see. I even thought about cheating since I could remember every day of the trip, but I decided to be honest. I remember well that the days were very similar. Sunny days with little wind, usually we could only sail in the afternoon. The passage was so calm that I can almost say that the boat rocked less than anchored in the port of Sri Lanka.

And so the nearly four days of sailing passed by... Inventions in the kitchen, reading, movies, guitar, and the CANELA heading peacefully towards the Maldives.


Yesterday at our arrival we were greeted by several giant manta rays. They came very close to the boat and were on average 2-meter wingspan. The water here is incredibly clean. Anyone who knows me knows I'm not very good at colors, but I would say it was a turquoise, sounds good. Sailing in waters 20 meters deep you could see the bottom.

So far Fiji was the most beautiful place I ever been, but this whole atmosphere of our arrival to the Maldives amazed me. The island where we arrived, the port of entry, is a small village with approximately 400 inhabitants, according to the agent who looked after our entry into the country, but walking the calm "streets" of the village gave me the impression that neither one third of that number live around here. The peace on the island is amazing. The silence. No cars (actually it doesn’t make any sense having a car in such a small island).
What impressed was the cleanliness and organization of the place. In Indonesia, the villages were usually disorganized, dirty, and I always thought that this was the lack of infrastructure in the place, sanitation, etc.. Here I could see that if community wants, even without the infrastructure, they can keep the place clean and organized. The sandy streets seemed to have been swept, not even leaves through the ground. And of course, the scenario is that: white sand, palm trees, etc ...

To complete, a local told us that here there is a lot of fish, lobster, squid ... then at the end of the day we decided to try our luck and pick up dinner. We were diving in the coral and end up back with a lobster and two fish. Not bad for day one. The credits go to the fisherman Gustavo.

Today we woke up early and went diving with the Manta Rays. Apparently the breakfast is always near where we anchored. Dozens of them floating peacefully around us regardless of our presence. Passed very close, sometimes even frightened as closely as they passed. Abundant marine life in these place.

Now is time to find the waves!

This is for the next chapter ...

Posted by Bruno Melatte Corino

29/3/2012 - 1:06


It was so embarrassing that I’ll have to keep it on record...

I was surfing in the morning this day and after catching a wave I was paddling back to the outside when I passed by two Japanese guys and, do you know when you can feel that someone is talking and laughing of you even without looking at them? I know that my surfing is not a big deal, but I surfed that wave quite ok. Since the waves were quite good for Sri Lanka that day, I didn’t care about them and just kept surfing for at least one hour more…

Late in the afternoon I went out for another session. I was surfing for a while already when I caught this wave and then paddle back and passed by one guy… I duck dived, and when I got outside this guy came to me laughing and said: Man, I think you ripped your shorts…

I wouldn’t like to be this guy seeing me duck diving with that ripped shorts…

At this moment the laugh of the Japanese guys just made sense.

I spent the whole day with this shorts as you can see in the picture…

Posted by Bruno Melatte Corino

7/3/2012 - 0:28

Simple like that

Life on CANELA
Life on CANELA

Before we left Langkawi, a friend of ours who works in a mega yacht gave us grated cheese, Parmesan, good one!

You should see how happy we were... since we left Australia we could not find grated cheese and since pasta is one of the main dishes on CANELA, the cheese is crucial.

So seeing our happiness with this cheese, I thought of how our needs change with the environment where we live in and how this consumer society creates many desires that sometimes we have the feeling of never being satisfied with what we have ...

But relax, my goal here is not to develop a critique of society, this story about the chesse just made me think about some simple things that were so ordinary in our “normal” life that we took it for granted and we miss them now. And every time we have the chance to have it again, even for a while, it makes us we go…

- Freshwater shower ... It doesn’t has to be hot, fresh water is already a joy. The soap froths! and after bathing you really feel clean ... in salt water, the soap doesn’t froht and even if you dry up very well you still get the feeling that you are sticking a bit because of the salt. We have fresh water tank, but we have to save for cooking, brushing teeth, and of course, if something goes wrong at sea, having a reserve of fresh water is very important.

- Normal bed ... My bed has two sleeping positions: squeezed with my bally down and squeezed with my belly up.

- TV, I know it is silly, but come on, it is good to lie on the sofa and watch some tv…

- Sofa would be nice too ...

- Air-conditioning, ok, that's a luxury, but the heat here is unbelievable, but we have fans ...

- Refrigerator… this is one of the things we miss at most and not having a refrigerator triggers a series of other simple things we miss. Having no refrigerator or freezer we can’t store any perishable food, let alone a simple cold water. I’m really missing a good meat, a good BBQ! Not only for not having a refrigerator, but here in asia meat is hard to find, a good one then is almost impossible ...

And the best of all is that we can live without these simple and basic things, the superfluous ones then forget it.

Posted by Bruno Melatte Corino

15/2/2012 - 22:53

Uncertain Destination

I was 16 the first time I flew out of Brazil alone ... I went to an exchange year in Germany and besides all the good time that I had living there, one of the things that a liked most was to travel around, without much plans...

And I started to like this travel thing (hard right!?) ... then reading an article on a surf website I came to the site of Tito Rosenberg ... journalist, photographer and traveler.

I decided to send an email to him and to my surprise he prompt replied. He said something that I didn't get very well before coming to Langkawi. He said:

"A certain destination takes you to an old dream. An uncertain destination takes you to a completely different place that you think you need."

Now that we've been to Langkawi, a place I've ever heard before, I could finally understand what he meant.

The guys all have already talked enough about how special this place was, the friends we made, how friendly the local people are, etc ... I just wanted to go on record as how this uncertain destination surprised me.

Some may think it seems a little contradictory, but I like to travel without feeling a tourist.

The "Canela" crew are not the kind who goes to places to visit, take a picture and just check the list of places to be seen ... we like to live the life of the place ... go to the public market, and eat weird things ... having no commitment to go for city tours... we prefer to meet people instead of seeing places ...

I'm not saying this is right, it's just the way we are...

For me what pleased me at most in Langkawi was exactly the fact that I didn't feel like a tourist at any time. Here there are several option for those seeking that usual turism, but I was never harassed by someone trying to sell me something. At the restaurants and bars that we use to go , everyone already knew us by name ... and we really felt at home here ...

The feelings always get confused when we have to leave places like this, but the feeling of going to a new destination is always exciting ... and by the way, Sri Lanka for me is another uncertain destination... with the advantage of having waves!

Posted by Bruno Melatte Corino

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