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6/5/2012 - 22:49


Who knew that just one day after the loss of my love and the happy reunion with my true love, the sea and fate would once again bring something for me.

When I wrote the previous post about the loss my board and the return of the magic board, deep down I was happy because it felt again the pleasure of having the ideal equipment for those waves. However, the next day when I was surfing again with the magic board, now the only remaining board that I have, again there was a surprise waiting for me.

Strangely that day I was not in sync with the sea, not that I always get the best waves, but usually when the waves are bigger, as was the case in the day, I always get more determination and attention, because it is in these conditions that I feel more challenged and determined to test my limits. However, my performance was not the best and even the magic board was saving the day, but I was still there after all just needed one good wave to change everything.

But what came as a result was not the long-awaited good wave, but another suffering time. I got a good wave that peeled on the reef and began to get hollow, as I am not stupid or anything I tried to fit in the barrel, after all the barrel is the sublime moment of surfing. I was stoked at that point, enter the barrel is not so hard, getting out is another story. Some barrels you have to do a line very close to the lip to get out, and this was just one of those cases, and I did it, trying to find the exit, but it was not quite what the wave had planned for me. The lip of the wave caught me and I ended up running with it, usually in these cases the body of the surfer falls at the base of the wave before the board and often falls into the shallow hole in a place that offers a certain danger.

As I was surfing on a reef break the situation was a little more dangerous, and perhaps sensing the dangerous situation the magic board decided to put between me and the bottom and literally save my skin, I could hit the bottom and cut myself. However, this achievement has not gone unscathed, in fact this meant a sacrifice, because when put in such a situation the magic board suffered a serious injury, creased the bottom. This lesion resembles the crack of a bone is not as serious as the break but it is serious.

They say that joy is short-lived poor, do not believe that I am poor, but the reunion with my magic board was actually short. However, despite the sadness of the moment, better days will come, or rather have come. While I can´ t find a hospital or the material needed to repair the magic board, I will count on the kindness of my mates who are lending me their boards to my joy and salvation, save the brotherhood!!!

Posted by Rasta

6/5/2012 - 1:44

True love

It's hard to lose a love, we are not always prepared for it. Sometimes the relationship is so worn that it is inevitable separation, but in other cases the love simply disappears in the blink of an eye, and in such cases the suffering is inevitable, we raised a series of hypotheses to explain such an event, try to logic to solve the feelings and almost always fail in this way to get anywhere.

Such suffering can take a long time to be resolved and the wounds healed, but there are also cases where the pain goes away almost instantly. Such an event can happen for various reasons, it is practically impossible to list them.

Today was atypical for me since I started this journey aboard Canela, the day began like any other, waking up early to go surfing, getting there, but what joy the waves had risen and reached 2 meters. All excited quickly paddled out , with only an hour surfing I had already lost both of my contact lenses and was surfing like Mr. Magoo, without seeing much, but always following the feelings. Here comes a bigger wave and without thinking I paddle, drop in the dry, do the bottom turn and don´t know how could see that wave will close. Without having much choice try to get into the wave to avoid being crushed by the beast. When the wave passes I feel relieved because I was not drawn and not crushed, pull the board by leash and realize that something is wrong, usually the board is a bit heavy due to the swirl of the wave, but in this case the board is very light. Conclusion, my board, my latest love, is now just a tail, it was snapped by the impact of the wave, how sad! I paddled to the dinghy desolate, because the loss is irreparable, couldn´t even managed to recover the rest of the body.

With all these the morning goes by, early afternoon brings with it a storm that brings even more sadness to what happened. Back to the boat didn´t want to talk, could only be thinking about how bad it was to lose my love at this point, still having more than six months to complete the journey.

In the solitude of the thoughts I knew that the sea could not get the best of me, after all the happiest moments that I had with my love were right there in the same blue immensity that now separated us forever.

It is not easy to forget a love like this, but there is always a way. And I found the way deep inside my coffin boards. Resting sovereign was my true love, one that has been called on many occasions the magic board, and that has accompanied me on many adventures for nearly three years. It is already more mature, has a few imperfections in the body, the bottom has some holes that are very similar to cellulite, and is not as modern as my love was. However, when we returned to the sea in the afternoon it became clear why it is my great love, slipped in the biggest waves that came with mastery, always seeking the most critical places to turn and show her skills.

And so, at the end of the day, despite of losing my love I got a huge smile on my face because I was pleased to meet my true love again, Maldives yeah!!!

Posted by Rasta

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